
Most of us have seen this by now, and those of us who Make or just curiosity, know they have batteries or capacitors to power the flashlight.
Well, I have good news for hand crank flashlight owners all over the world. The generator makes almost identical power as a computers’ USB port and not only can you install a USB port on your flashlight to charge any peripheral via USB, I’m gonna show you how.
Since I have modified two flashlights, they have already presented different situations for building the port inside the flashlight.
Warning. When entering the flashlight, there is a system like gears in a clock. With both of my flashlights I have been able to work it apart carefully, to explore the inner case without it falling apart.
To begin, there are a few screws to remove so you can explore the negative-space-recesses for implantation of the USB port. This is the first step, to make sure your model of flashlight can be modified. Second, is to have the very few parts needed to finish.
4 diodes 1N400X series to build the rectifier, the USB to adapt into the flashlight and small wire, 20 or 22 gauge to wire it. Preferably stranded wire for the flexibility.
Once upon a time I didn’t know what all of this terminology meant, but through patient reading and trial and error I was able to do this, and even if you don’t understand how this mod works, you can still make this then understand it later.
Unless you have an acute awareness of what you are doing when you wire this together, you have to use a voltmeter to determine polarity.
As you look at the USB port, and hold it at the proper angle to reveal the metal contacts. The one on the left is negative and the one on the right is positive. There is no purpose for the two contacts in the middle for this mod. So, keep in mind if the contacts are upside down, the contact on the upper left is positive. When you wire the positive contact in the back, make sure it doesn’t come in contact with any other metal, except the wire you are soldering to it.

Earlier, when I mentioned the voltage was almost identical, once rectified using the diodes, when cranked it puts out half of the amps and within .5 volts as normal USB does.
If you are having trouble soldering the wires or contacts together, try tinning.
Use the iron with solder on the tip. As the twisted leads heat, the solder will move throughout the groves. This is known as tinning.
If both points are properly tinned when you add the iron temporarily, the solder melts, then remove the iron. The solder then solidifies and you’re set, a good connection. When possible, anchor wires mechanically, like the holes in each generator lead, the wires went through the hole then I bent the wire up.





My first mod, pictured above, was a well-hidden port. The USB was covered when the handle was retracted.





For this mod it is important to wire directly to the generator so it does not tax the batteries when a USB cable is plugged in. It will only work when you crank. You will also charge the batteries for the flashlights whenever you are generating. Since it generates AC it won’t matter which of the two wires go from the generator to the rectifier. I’ve noticed the batteries are only 40ma, you don’t want to use this battery to charge another battery, it just doesn’t have the capacity. For example, a single AA has up to 2500ma.






